The road from Houston to the Gulf of Mexico leads away from the myth of steers and Stetsons and into the heart of a different Texas too many people have never seen. With over six hundred miles of coastline, two hundred reservoirs and abundant lakes and rivers, Texas contains a thriving wet side built around boats and leisure. And in May, the center of that world is in Seabrook, home of the Lakewood Yacht Club and the Concours d’Elegance.

At first sight, Lakewood seems a forest of masts rising above the palm trees and modern pleasure yachts. A harbor lies hidden within, filled with boats that have gathered for the 7th Annual Wooden Keels and Classic Wheels organized by the Southwest Chapter of the Antique and Classic Boat Society and the Lakewood Yacht Club and sponsored by Lexus. Growing in size and stature every year, the Concours now attracts over 230 of the finest classic and exotic cars and almost 70 vintage boats, making this one of the largest events of its kind in the country.

As you stroll down the long curved drive that leads from the gates to the water you pass through the crowds moving among the turn of the century autos arranged in the shade of the graceful oaks, past the European luxury cars and American classics and finally on to the docks. With almost 35 acres, the handsome grounds allow a welcome contrast to the usual chorus line displays of so many other shows.
Approaching the marina your eyes sweep over the array of boats and cars placed in a way that leads from the dozens of Ferraris, Maseratis and other Italian models to the Jaguars nestled nearer the docks then down to the first of the vessels. Here the accent is on elegance as an aria by Bocelli drifts from a Venetian Water Limousine, enticing the curious to come closer and imagine motoring down the Grand Canal, a theme reinforced by the vaguely Venetian ornate posts along the docks.
With the harbor now in view it’s the big boats that next command your attention. Arranged along the perimeter and providing a dramatic backdrop with their signal flags fluttering in the breeze, these are another of the envy inducing signatures of the Concours.

Among them is the Flying Lady, Rich and Donna Reiling’s 1937, 61’ Trumpy/Mathis cruiser, an impressive recent restoration shimmering within its layers of varnish and seemingly never without a party going on aboard for the duration of the Show. Further along is the Carrie L, a 67’ Fore Runner built by Annapolis Shipyards in 1940 for Fanny Brice and Billy Rose and certainly a boat with a most interesting history. Its owners, Bill and Carrie Lowenthal, share its 3 staterooms, 2 baths, formal dining room and salon with the amicable, if somewhat possessive ghost of its former Captain. Distinction enough for any boat indeed, but the Carrie L also boasts of service as a coastal gunboat in World War II which entitles her to be the only boat in the show allowed to fly the Navy flag. Lone Star, a 65’ ketch designed and built in England, looks graceful even at rest with its sleek black Coronado hardtop tethered alongside. Joe Huggins, Owner/Skipper, together with Miles Thompson and a crew of 8 sailed her around the world on a voyage that took 12 years to complete.

(click photo to enlarge)

Back on the docks a glamorous 28’ Riva Aquarama twin engine provokes the inevitable surge of hormones as people make their way over to where the runabouts, outboards, and utilities are displayed.

Chris-Craft, Century, Higgins, Lyman, Shepherd and Garwood are some of the names that are well represented. Near a 1940 Hafer runabout is Paul and Linda Merryman’s 1955 16’ Holmes outboard named Generations, a perennial crowd pleaser for its nostalgic appeal and continuity of ownership; it was bought from the local builder and has been in the family for four generations. Two other Texas boat builders little known outside the South, Helton and Proske, are also seen in the Show.

Across the dock, looking like a violin in the percussion section with its delicate lines and original oars and engine, Jeff Hill’s beautiful 1926 18’ Dispro demonstrates the best of a boat show’s functions – to expose the public to vessels which are little seen in its area. A gleaming 24’ triple cockpit Hacker, Dolphin Jr., visually anchors the far end, along with a 37’ Custom Commuter Hacker, newly built and designed after a 1920’s vintage boat, making its very first public appearance.

As for the cars, it is certainly beyond the scope of a boating magazine to do them justice but the sheer number of high-end autos is truly impressive. From a 1914 Cadillac to a 1931 Cord L-29 owned by President Herbert Hoover to a 1966 Maserati Mexico Frua there’s easily two days of serious browsing available. The fact that there are almost 70 awards for automobiles should give some idea of the extent of the collection assembled here.

Anyone who’s ever been associated with even a small event knows how essential it is to have a driver, someone who puts it all together and pushes it through to a successful finish. That job for this $150,000 event belongs to Bob Fuller, who at any moment during the two days can be seen maneuvering his golf cart around like a President intent on shuttle diplomacy. Sometimes it seems as if the whole event is stitched together by golf carts and walkie-talkies. Though no Desert Storm, the Concours displays an organizational grasp of detail that reveals Bob’s military background. The genesis for what was to become the bible for the Concours and its 27 (now 34) committees was created one night from a single epiphany, what he calls “a flash of brilliance,” and still provides the blueprint for the event today.

The actual inspiration for the Show has a more familiar ring and one that’s become part of its lore. “Paul (Merryman, former SW Chapter president) and I were sitting at that window over there having a drink,” says Bob, pointing toward the Yacht Club. “I said ‘Let’s have a car show.’” “Why just a car show,” said Paul, “why not boats, too?” “And the more we drank...the smarter we became! Until today...”

Today it is hard to believe that from this humble beginning sprang the event, which now measures up to Pebble Beach, Meadowbrook, and Amelia Island, with the additional draw of its 70 classic boats.

The Concours practically becomes Fuller’s full time job for almost 5 months. The esteem everyone has for him became apparent at the awards banquet when, while presenting him with a special appreciation award, the crowd of 500 rose to its feet in a sustained outpouring of applause and affection for the unflappable chairman.

One remarkable fact much commented upon is that in its seven years, the Concours d’Elegance has never been marred by any rain. Extraordinary luck in the unpredictable sub-tropics. Fuller attributes this to the power of collective prayer, but it’s rumored that Bob has a more direct connection.

Each year the Show features a special event and this year it was the mighty Confederate Air Force lead by Col. Charles Hutchins. Swooping low over the marina, these pilots amazed and startled the crowd with their famous reenactment of the attack on Pearl Harbor. While the Tora Gang dove and wheeled their Zeros in tight patterns, the sky overhead was filled with the smoke from the nearby anti-aircraft guns and exploding barges. A stirring sight to see and one with special impact in light of the events of last fall.

It’s just after dawn, a time when the marina belongs to only the raucous grackles hauling their outlandish boat tails from palm to palm. Low morning light is cutting through the early morning haze while out on the seawall, Paul Hastings is overseeing a crane lowering the last of his Higgins utilities into the harbor. Paul has brought his entire tribe and a small flotilla down from Arkansas for the Show. Soon the grounds will begin to come alive with thousands of people, but for now the scene looks like a placid watercolor of reflected tents and wooden boats. By midday the swimming pool is the center of activity for kids and families of Lakewood’s newest members. That’s because every exhibitor and sponsor plus their families become honorary Club members for the two days of the Show, the goal being to have everyone feel at home. Just another example of the relaxed atmosphere at this event where the focus is more on participation that perfection. The Club also provides 150 of the 300 plus volunteers needed to staff the Keels and Wheels.

Another source of volunteers comes from the local Cystic Fibrosis Foundation Chapter, an organization who's members have developed a great working relationship with the Show and shown enthusiasm from the beginning. This year almost $60,000 was raised through sponsor fees and ticket sales toward research, patient care and education about this disease. The Cystic Fibrosis Kids Award, chosen and presented by the kids themselves, is one of the most coveted prizes of the Show.
So where to from here. The number "seven" derives from the word "to be satisfied; to have enough of." Surely this doesn't describe the 7th Concours d'Elegance. Both Fuller and Merryman feel the biggest challenge is expanding the boat side of the Show. With its ability to add temporary dock space and its proximity to the Intercoastal Waterway, Lakewood and the Concours would seem a perfect spring destination for boaters. Next year the Show will have a feature boat for the first time which will be Higgins boats. The reduced salinity of the brackish Clear Lake water should allay the fears of those hesitant to bring their fresh water runabouts to the Gulf. Located early enough in the show season, before the true summer swelter and with the nearby attractions of Houston, NASA, and the Gulf Coast the hope is to draw more boaters willing to make the trip. Perhaps even those with time and ambition who are dreaming of making the Great Loop up the East Coast, through the Great Lakes and down the Mississippi. For them the warmth and genuine hospitality of Texas and the Eighth Annual Concours d'Elegance awaits.